Maoist letter to the US Ambassador

Lynn and the Maoists

The US state department warns about the dangerous Maoists in Nepal.  But among the backpacking community there seems to be a competition to see who had the most entertaining encounter with them.  I met an American named Lynn at my guesthouse in Siem Reap and he told us his story.

Lynn had received report by word of mouth:  "The Maoists aren't really a problem, just do not tell them that you're an American."

On his way up the hill, he snuck past the Maoists, who were busy with a tour group.  The Maoists stop everyone asking for what is often described as a bribe, but the Maoists insist is a visa fee for entering their territory. 

On the way back Lynn doesn't manage to escape them.  For some reason, he fails to lie and admits to being an American.  They don't seem to be particularly bothered by the fact that he's an American and ask for $20.  Lynn who has almost completed his trek, is now almost completely out of cash.  He is forced to tell them that he doesn't have $20.  They ask for $10, but he doesn't have that either.  The Maoists then huddle for a discussion among themselves.  Instead of being angry, they start laughing at him.

He's is the first tourist that has admitted to being an American.  They decide to to write him up special papers labeling him as an ambassador and give him free access through all checkpoints.  The only thing they ask is that he delivers a letter to the US ambassador in Kathmandu.

Here is a copy of the US State Department warning for Nepal:

The Department of State urges U.S.  citizens to defer non-essential travel to Nepal .  Maoist rebel violence has increased since the end of the ceasefire on August 27.  Since the resumption of hostilities, Maoist statements and leaflets have carried anti-American slogans.  Anti-American rhetoric by rebel leadership, including against U.S.-sponsored or supported humanitarian organizations, has increased, raising security concerns for all U.S.  citizens living in or visiting Nepal.

Here is the Maoist response as hand delivered by "ambassador" Lynn. 

Mr.  Ambassador!  Red Salute, KTM
American Ambassy, KTM

We don't have any policy to attack even American people & the other tourists.  But we take the tax give permission.  We welcome and protect them as we can.  We have a flaxible tax system for this yr.  He has no money and we are giving him permission.  free.

WWW.CPNM.ORG

We don't want to return them or him.  American policy against CPN (Maoist).  American policy is in favor of terrorism but we are generous & kind in return. 

[signature]
CPN (Maoist)
ANNAPURNA AREA

The maoist commander's English isn't perfect, but he seems friendly enough. Good to his word, Lynn went to the US embassy with the letter.  The embassy staff was very interested in the letter.  A senior official met with him and took a xeroxed copy of the letter.  Somehow though, I doubt the US embassy will update their warning and share the Maoist's greetings.

Colin and the Tiger

Colin is the other English speaking volunteer in the museum.  He's English, in his 50s and tells stories about traveling through Afghanistan 30 years ago on the old hippy trail.  But his experience last Tuesday, topped anything that he saw or did back then.

A japanese businessman came to the museum and was interested in building a school in the small village where Akira was born.  Colin accompanied Akira and the Japanese to the village. 

As they arrive a friend of Akira calls them over to his hut.  Inside the skin of a freshly killed tiger is drying on the wall.  The villager is very excited, because they can sell the skin for $150.  In a country where the wage for a good job in the city is $1/day, $150 is a massive amount of money for a villager.  It's probably enough to feed his family for a year. 

Then Colin and the Japanese are led out back.  A whole tree is burning slowly for the barbecue and the rest of the tiger is grilling on top.  They're all offered bits of meat.  And to answer the obvious question, tiger does not taste like chicken - it tastes more like pork.

Lonely Planet says that there are only 150 tigers left in Cambodia.  Now it's 149.  It's sad when people hunt endangered species.  But it's hard to blame someone when they are feeding their family.

As for the school, I don't know if it is going to happen.  The villagers are asking for a well instead, as there is no access to fresh water anywhere near the village.